The Journey Home

India. That magical enigma, that dream with the harsh reality. All those colors and smells and dialects and faces. It is strange how quickly it all seems so far away, as I settle into the familiarity of my homeland, Sweden. I was surprised at how many different feelings I felt, as I travelled from Delhi to Dubai to Stockholm. I miss India already and I have this strange feeling of regret, like my visit didn't do India justice. At the same time I am more aware of my privilege than ever, so fortunate out of my countrymen to see such a distant  and different place as India, and so fortunate among the people I leave behind in India to travel to a drastically different place like Sweden. I am also so grateful and happy having seen India, and also to be back in Sweden.

Before I continue in my ramblings, I want to share with you one of my favorite Urdu ghazals (poem of rhyming couplets emerging out of Sufi tradition in South Asia) by the famous Urdu poet Mohammed Iqbal. I discovered it through one of my fellow CLS Urdu program participants, who shared it at the Cultural show and tell at the end of our program. And as always it is so hard to properly translate a poem, so I have included the Urdu in romanized script first, followed by two different translations in English. Hopefully you can glean the meaning from the poem and understand why it especially resonates with me right now as I return from India.

Sitaron se aage jahan aur bhi hain
Abhi ishq ke imtehan aur bhi hain
Tahi zindagi se nahin ye fizayen
Yahan siakdon karwaan aur bhi hain
Khana’at na kar aalam-e-rang-o-bu par
Chaman aur bhi aashiyaan aur bhi hain
Agar kho gaya ek nasheman to kya ghum
Maqmat-e-aah-o-fughaan aur bhi hain
Tu shaheen hai parvwaaz hai kaam tera
Tere saamne aasmaan aur bhi hain
Isi roz-o-shab main ulajh kar na rah ja
Ke tere zameen par makaan aur bhi hain
Gaye din ke tanha tha main anjuman mein
Yahaan ab mere raazdaan aur bhi hain

Other worlds exist beyond the stars—

More tests of love are still to come.

This vast space does not lack life—

Hundreds of other caravans are here.

Do not be content with the world of color and smell,

There are other gardens, other nests, too.

What is the worry if one nest is lost?

There are other places to sigh and cry for!

You are an eagle, flight is your vocation:

You have other skies stretching out before you.

Do not let mere day and night ensnare you,

Other times and places belong to you.

Gone are the days when I was alone in company—

Many here are my confidants now.

Beyond the stars there are worlds more

Our quest yet has more tests to pass

This existence alone does not matter

There are boundless journeys more

Do not rest on what you have

There are paradises more to explore

Why worry if you have lost one abode

There are a million addresses to claim

You are the falcon, your passion is flight

And you have skies more to transcend

Lose not yourself in the cycle of days and nights

Within your reach are feats even more

Gone is the day when I was lonesome in the crowd

Today those who resonate my thoughts are more

You can see the differences in the two translations. It really shows how difficult it is to translate a poem! I am excited that I've built this foundation in Urdu now so I can get to the point where I can understand the poem in its original Urdu. 

Speaking of Urdu, on my flight from Delhi to Dubai I watched a pretty good Pakistani movie on my flight (mainly to practice my Urdu), Zinda Bhaag (2013), which was about the drivers of illegal immigration among a small lower middle-class community in Lahore. It was funny and heavy at the same time, dealing effectively with an important topic and showing a side of it that is not explored enough. Then on the flight from Dubai to Stockholm I sat next to an exchange student from Japan off to study at a university in Sweden for a term and a newlywed girl from Bangladesh who was moving to Stockholm to live with her husband in Sweden where he had worked for several years. Neither of them had ever been abroad and I was just reminded of how I almost take for granted my great fortune of having traveled to over 25 countries at the age of 21. This one trip must be so meaningful for them, and my homeland so exciting. By the time I arrived in Sweden, I felt so grateful that I could so easily and legitimately enter such a sought-after country and call it my home.

Pictures of my final days in Delhi will come soon! I've been relaxing in the archipelago for the weekend with my aunt and uncle and cousins, complete with morning swims in 17 C Baltic waters and berry-picking in the forest. Kramar från Sverige! (Hugs from Sweden!)

My Literal Journey to India

Guess where I am...INDIA!!! This magical country of contrasts and color, sickness and spice, beauty and prejudice, is mine to explore for the summer. I can't tell you how excited I am, even though I am also incredibly tired. I have so much to tell you too! But my computer charger isn't working so this will have to be short.

When I get the chance there are three things I want to write about:

1. Our amazing 6-hour layover in Germany in which the love of my life was an amazing tour guide and took us to the best cafes and views in Frankfurt. THANK YOU! (pictures to come!)

2. United vs. Lufthansa. We took United IAD-FRA and Lufthansa FRA-DEL. Pros and cons but generally Lufthansa wins. And if you're on a flight to India ALWAYS order the vegetarian food - best airplane food ever! Also movie recommendations: Lunchbox (beautiful story about human connection in Mumbai), Saving Mr. Banks (put me in tears - the backstory of Mary Poppins), and Hundraåringen som klev ut genom fönstret och försvann (my favorite Swedish book that has now been made into a really awesome and hilarious movie - read the book AND watch the movie!).

3. First impressions of India. I was too tired and it was too late to really get a proper impression, but exiting the airport wasn't as chaotic and culture shock-y as they make it seem in the movies. Maybe that is because we arrived at midnight. At the hotel they already had breakfast set! We are staying at Ibis hotel - awesome service and complimentary bottled water. YAY NO PARASITES YET! Ok now I have to get to bed to catch a flight to Lucknow tomorrow morning. Flying with Indigo Airlines. :)

Shab bekhair and hugs to all!!!

Books and Bollywood

ONE MORE WEEK TO GO UNTIL LIFT-OFF! I couldn't be more excited. My existence has been taken over by dancing around the house to Hindi and Urdu songs, teaching my family random Urdu phrases, watching every bollywood movie on Netflix, and of course reading about the incredible country I'm about to visit. I would like to share some of the books and movies that I have enjoyed the most in my pre-trip education of India, in the hopes that you also will want to learn more about the subcontinent.

Empires of the Indus: The Story of a River by Alice Albinia

Empires of the Indus is a blend of gripping travelogue and compelling history, chronicling a young British women's journey up along the Indus river that binds much of Pakistan together and is coincidentally what I want to focus on in graduate school. The brave and confident Alice had worked for several years in Delhi as a journalist and studied Indus River history at SOAS in London before she embarked on her mesmerizing journey in Karachi. She starts the book with a startling image of a man emerging from a sewer, and in the first few pages already uncovers the social complexity of Pakistan that goes against the stereotypical image of the country in the West. Amidst her own discovery of Karachi she also swiftly moves back in history to partition and what it meant for the region, and the region's rivers. She then follows the river upstream and introduces the reader to the Sheedis - the community in Pakistan of African descent. She seamlessly binds history with contemporary life, while simultaneously displaying the contrasts  of Pakistan that combat our unfairly monolithic idea of such a vast, diverse, and beautiful country.

As she moves up along the river from its outpouring into the Arabian Sea to its source in the remotest parts of Tibet, she swiftly interweaves her 21st century experiences of the region with the past that brought us to this point. Sufis, British colonialists, Mughal emperors, Sikh gurus, Alexander the Great, early Buddhists, Sanskrit writers of Hinduism's holy texts, lithic female hunters, matriarchal nomadic tribes, and nature's forces all appear to be inexplicably bound in this incredible tale of one woman's incredible bravery to uncover the truth about this river that has inspired literature, music, bloodshed and faith since the beginning of time. Each chapter seems to be the most riveting, from border-hopping between Pakistan and Afghanistan, trekking through unmapped tribal territories, to finding fear, desolation, and melancholy beauty in Tibet. The final chapter ruminates on the moment when the Indus itself was created, long before man sought to control it and (SPOILER ALERT) starts destroying it. The book left me incredibly moved and more determined than ever to travel around the region (including Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Kashmir – but when the time is right) and commit myself to uncovering the reasons for and solutions to their detrimental water problems.

That was one of the books I wanted to write a proper review of because I just recently finished it. Here are some books I have also read that I recommend:

• The Inheritance of Loss by Kiran Desai: Beautifully written and highly acclaimed novel about the relationship between Indian immigrants in New York City and their families and hometowns in India. The opening poem, Boast of Quietness by Jorge Luis Borges, has become one of my favorite poems.
• Tablet & Pen: Literary Landscapes from the Modern Middle East by Reza Aslan: A spellbinding selection of poetry and short stories from all over the Muslim world, including Pakistan and Iran.
• The critically acclaimed children's novels by Suzanne Fisher Staples: Her books are what first made me obsessed with the region when I was just a little bookworm in the Swedish countryside. I had to get a second copy of her book Haveli at one point because I read it until it tore apart.
• Pakistan: A Hard Country by Anatol Lieven: Lieven is an experienced journalist who wrote this extensive account of the real reasons behind Pakistan's instability. 

I just graduated, which means in the past four years I had minimal time for reading for leisure. Therefore here are some books on my Amazon wish list that I hope to read in India or afterwards:

• Leela's Book by Alice Albinia: The new novel by the same author of Empires of the Indus that blends Hindu mystical tradition with contemporary life in Delhi.
• The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy: I first discovered this author by learning of the highly publicized campaign against the Narmada Dam and really want to read her book now!
• Delhi by Heart: Impressions of a Pakistani Traveller by Raza Rumi: A travelogue of a Pakistani man's journey to the capital of India, the city he was born in.
• India: A Million Mutinies Now by V. S. Naipaul: A Noble-prize winning author of Indian heritage is certainly one of the few who can elegantly parse out the contrasts and complexities of the Indian people.
• The Girl from Foreign: A Memoir by Sadia Shepard: A young Pakistani women travels to India to make a documentary of her Jewish ancestors. I heard her speak in Washington DC and can't wait to read her book!
• A Case of Exploding Mangoes by Mohammed Hanif: A supposedly hilarious take on Pakistani politics that I can't wait to read both for the laughs and the insights.
• Playing with Fire: Pakistan at War with Itself by Pamela Constable: This book was recommended by a panel on the untold stories of Pakistan, including Declan Walsh, Sadia Shepard, and others.
• City of Djinns: A Year in Delhi by William Dalrymple: What South Asia reading list is complete without a book by this masterful British historian?
• Behind the Beautiful Forevers: Life, Death, and Hope in a Mumbai Undercity by Katherine Boo: A beautiful novel that I got from my sister as a graduation present and have started reading after finishing Empires of the Indus. It gives incredible insight into life in the growing slums of India's largest cities.

The list could go on and on but I'll stop here. Happy to receive suggestions in the comments!

Now on to one of my new favorite things: BOLLYWOOOOOOD!

At first it was something that played on the TV in Indian restaurants. Then I began to watch them in earnest and thought they were a bit annoying but entertaining. Now I can't live without them, and I've got my whole family hooked as well - including my grandma who thinks Shahrukh Khan is a total charmer.

Here is a list of the bollywood movies I have seen so far that I have liked, including my favorite song from the movie:

• Three Idiots: Often the only Bollywood movie that Americans have seriously watched, in my experience. Great movie and the ending really made me want to visit Leh/Ladakh! Check out this song from the movie.
• Bunty Aur Bubli: Before I was even planning to travel to India I watched this and really enjoyed it. A Bollywood Bonnie & Clyde! This song is fun.
• Jab Tak Hai Jaan: Some of my Indian friends told me they heard this wasn't that good, but I really enjoyed it, mainly for the beautiful scenery and clothing and my obsession with the Punjabi song Heer. The two things that frustrated me were that the plot line was unusually farfetched and that all the women in the movie were too frustratingly perfect. But I would watch it again for the song Heer <3
• Aashiqui 2: A sob story about alcoholism and celebrity sacrifices, with an incredible soundtrack and a breathtakingly handsome male lead. My best friend and I thoroughly enjoyed it! I will recommend two songs for this one: the heart-wrenching Tum Hi Ho and the beautiful sufi-rock tune Sunn Raha Hai.
• Kai Po Che: This was the second bollywood movie I loved most after Three Idiots, mainly because I just fell in love with the passion and spirit of the lead character, played by Sushant Singh Rajput. It taught me a bit about cricket and Hindu-Muslim tensions as well! I mainly discovered it because I love the song Meethi Boliyan.
• Shuddh Desi Romance: I was so happy when this turned up on netflix, because I had been dying to see another movie featuring Sushant Singh Rajput. It's a fun take on controversial contemporary attitudes toward dating and marriage in the beautiful state of Rajasthan. This is how I discovered one of my favorite actresses, Parineeti Chopra, a girl with some kick-ass attitude. Listen to this cute song.
• Ishaqzaade: I watched this film for two reasons - it featured Parineeti Chopra and the entire thing is filmed in Lucknow. A warped Bollywood version of Romeo and Juliet, it was a moving tribute to all the ishaaqzaades (rebel-loves) in India, who (SPOILER ALERT) die for loving outside their caste or religion. The dancing in this song is just as fun as saying its title: Jhalla Wallah. There is even a remix!
• Jodhaa Akbar: Long, expensive-looking, and ultimately impressive depiction of the famed love between Muslim Mughal emperor Akbar and his Hindu Rajput princess Jodhaa. The sufi wedding song has been stuck in my head ever since I watched it.
• Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge: This was the Bollywood movie I showed my grandma to introduce her to the whole thing. Includes the European road trip that Indians seem to love, forbidden love of course, and lots of colorful song and dance numbers. A classic! This song started the peculiar Bollywood trend of women singing and dancing with only a towel around them.
• Jab We Met: I watched this movie in my Politics and Conflict in South Asia class and found the main female character, played by Kareena Kapoor, kind of annoying but the male lead, Shahid Kapoor, very sweet. Manali looks beautiful as well! Unfortunately, I didn't really like any of the songs from the movie especially much, but here is one: Hum Jo Chalne Lage.
• Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara: Fun movie about men who reevaluate their romantic relaitonships and bromances over the course of a crazy roadtrip through Spain. I loved the intermingling of Spanish and Indian culture in the songs - check out Señorita!

I can't believe I've already seen more than 10 bollywood movies! There are still a lot more to discover though. Please write suggestions in the comments if you have any ideas for how I should continue my bollywood education!

Now I'm off to celebrate the start of the World Cup. I'll be spending most of the summer in a country where I have heard they don't appreciate the beauty of football (for you Americans, soccer) but I'm too excited about India to be sad about that. SO MUCH TO CELEBRATE! *Cue bollywood dance sequence*